Anti-Wrinkle Makeup: My Professional Techniques for Concealing Lines

Is it possible to conceal wrinkles and lines with makeup, and if so, what are the best techniques for anti-aging makeup? This is one of the questions I hear most frequently in my makeup classes.

Wrinkles and lines are inevitable. As we age, the skin becomes thinner and drier, losing its ability to "bounce back." This calls for a shift and adaptation in our makeup routines. By using the right products and applying them with the correct techniques, we can bring radiance back to our complexion, making our faces appear more dynamic and youthful.

I've compiled here for you my professional makeup tips for effective anti-aging makeup, specifically techniques to soften and blur lines and wrinkles.

The Key: Choosing the Right Foundation Texture

The crucial decision for successful anti-aging makeup lies in selecting the right foundation texture. A smooth product with a formula that locks in moisture will be your best companion. Keywords like "moisture, luminosity, radiance" can guide you in finding the perfect match.

Mature skin tends to be drier, requiring all the hydration it can get. Opt for gentle and glowy formulas. Avoid textures that dry out, especially matte and powdery formulas, as they can make the skin look dry and wrinkly, accentuating fine lines.
When it comes to coverage, lean towards lighter products for a fresh, natural look. Thick, heavy textures can settle into lines, emphasizing them. Buildable formulas are ideal, allowing you to add more product where needed, in order to cover redness, spots, or blemishes.

Essential: The Perfect Color

The second crucial choice for anti-aging makeup is the shade of your foundation. The ideal shade matches your skin tone exactly.

When your foundation is the same color as your skin, your makeup can be worked transparently. It becomes "invisible," appearing natural, fresh, and rejuvenating.
To find the ideal color, apply a small drop of the product to your cheek, between your mouth and ear. (Testing the color on your face is crucial, as that's where you'll wear the foundation.) The product spot should melt invisibly into your skin and disappear to the eye. If that happens, you've chosen the right shade.

Application: Simple Techniques

Whether working backstage at Fashion Week, in a makeup class, or applying makeup to myself, my favorite technique for applying liquid foundation remains the same: I start by placing a large drop of the product on the back of my hand. From there, I pick up tiny amounts with a brush or my fingers, applying them to the face from the center outward. I then smooth and blend with my brush or fingers in small strokes.
If there are still areas with redness, I add a bit more product by gently patting it in.

Deep Wrinkles: My Trick to Conceal Them

Deeper lines, like nasolabial folds, can be softened with a professional makeup technique—a slightly advanced method, but not witchcraft ;-).
You need a subtle highlighter like Yves Saint Laurent's Touche Eclat. With the tip of the integrated brush (or a separate, very fine brush similar to an eyeliner brush), draw into the depth of the wrinkle. A fine line is sufficient; be careful not to overload. Then gently blend the line with a brush, preferably a two-fiber brush. As a result your wrinkle appears less pronounced and less deep, softened with a subtle filter effect.

For frown lines, a colorless mattifying powder, like Nars' Light Reflecting Setting Powder, can help. Apply it with a moderately-sized brush for a more precise effect. The powder will immediately give the affected area a softened, smoother appearance while remaining practically invisible as a makeup product.

Crucial: Skin Preparation

I always emphasize that makeup needs skin to be well-prepared, especially if it's dry. The pigments of makeup products will otherwise settle into dry skin, resulting in a very dry and uneven appearance.

The right skin preparation program involves applying a serum and then a moisturizer after cleansing the skin. While applying, you can gently (!) massage the skin to stimulate blood circulation. (I personally am not a fan of overly vigorous massages, fearing that it might stretch the thin and sensitive mature skin too much).

Best wait a bit to allow the skincare products to be absorbed properly, preventing pilling. After a short moment, your skin will be perfectly moisturized and ready for makeup.

Primer: What Are They For?

Can a makeup primer be effective as anti-aging makeup? Yes! If chosen correctly! The most suitable primers for anti-wrinkle makeup are those that create a blurred effect, visually smoothening the skin surface. Lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores are softened and less visible.

Apply them in small amounts (!), mainly on the T-zone, the center of the face, and the forehead, or wherever you want to smoothen out your skin.
Note: Some primers act like highlighters, making the skin shine. These products are not suitable for anti-aging makeup, as they enhance and emphasize the skin's texture, including pores and wrinkles.

Anti-Aging Makeup: It's Possible!

The signs of aging can be effectively minimized with make-up. Here's what you need:

1. A creamy, lightweight, and moisturizing foundation for luminosity and radiance.
2. The perfect color that precisely matches your skin tone.
3. The right application technique for a fresh and natural look.
4. A highlighter and a colorless powder for more pronounced wrinkles.
5. A skincare routine to prepare your skin optimally.
6. Optional: A blurring primer.

With these tips, you may not stop time (but who wants to?), but you will obtain a naturally smooth and youthful complexion, glowing with freshness and luminosity!