Applying Concealer Correctly: Covering Dark Circles After 40
Dark circles are among the biggest concerns of my clients. They can give the face a tired and worn-out appearance. However, a well-chosen and correctly applied concealer can work wonders and instantly make your eyes look fresher.
For mature skin over 40 and a fresh anti-aging effect, it's particularly important to A) choose the right concealer, and B) use the optimal application technique.
Why Dark Circles Become Deeper with Age
Why do dark circles become more visible as we get older?
With age, the skin under the eyes becomes thinner and loses elasticity. This causes blood vessels to show through more prominently, and their bluish color creates dark shadows, especially in the inner corner of the eye. The result is a tired-looking appearance.
Many women only notice dark circles as they get older, when previously they were never an issue.
The Concealer Dilemma with Fine Lines
With concealers, we want to cover these dark shadows without highlighting any fine lines. The dilemma with concealers, however, is that often the opposite of what we want to achieve happens: The concealer emphasizes fine lines and pores, instead of concealing them.
This is caused either by textures that are too thick and dry in a heavy layer on the skin, making every imperfection visible.
For skin over 40, the texture should be light and creamy, so that fine lines are not emphasized but softened. Moisturizing ingredients should also be included to ensure that the delicate eye area remains nourished and supple.
Less Concealer is More
Another common mistake is applying too much concealer. The excess inevitably slips into fine lines and actually highlights them. With concealer, the rule is absolutely: less is more.
What Concealer Can and Cannot Cover
"Less is more" also applies to the areas where concealer should be applied. In this context, we first need to understand what concealer can and cannot cover: Concealer can only balance color issues, not unevenness in skin texture. Shadows yes, they can be softened or concealed; depressions that often occur under the eyes along with shadows, no. In advertising, effects are often suggested that are simply unrealistic.
Where Concealer Makes Sense
For the reason mentioned above, it makes sense to apply concealer only to the actual shadow areas. Especially in the inner corner of the eye, where the bluish shadows are usually strongest.
Covering the entire under-eye area, on the other hand, does nothing. On the contrary: in the outer eye area, concealer is not only unnecessary but even counterproductive because it emphasizes and highlights fine lines there.
The Smile Test: Where Concealer Belongs
A simple trick helps determine where you should apply concealer: Smile at yourself in the mirror. All areas that move when you smile should remain concealer-free, as the product would otherwise collect in the movement lines there. The immobile zones, however, are perfect for the product.
The Correct Application Technique
As already mentioned, the most common mistake when applying is using too much concealer.
Therefore, dab only the smallest amounts of concealer, preferably with a slightly tapered brush, precisely onto the problem areas. (I always prefer brushes as they allow for more precise application than the foam applicators often supplied with the concealer.)
Afterward, gently blend the edges, but be careful to maintain the coverage. If necessary, you can dab a little more concealer in specific areas. But always remember that "too much" will inevitably settle unattractively.
Solutions for Under-Eye Bags and Hollows
With puffy eyes or very deeply sunken dark circles, i.e., "3D problems," concealer alone can't do much, as it only corrects color.
Here, a professional tip helps: A super-fine, colorless powder, applied in a whisper-thin layer under the eye, creates an optically smoothing soft-focus effect.
The combination of both techniques provides the perfect fresh boost: Concealer neutralizes the dark shadows, transparent powder ensures a smoother finish. This simple routine makes the eyes and the entire eye area look instantly more awake and radiant.
The Most Important Points at a Glance:
• Prefer light, creamy concealers with moisturizing ingredients• Apply only to shadow areas, not all over
• Use sparingly and work with a precise brush
• Blend gently without losing coverage
• Set with the finest powder for a soft-focus effect
With these tips, you can efficiently cover your dark circles with concealer without emphasising your fine lines, for a fresh and well-rested look.
